Over the last couple of years there has been much debate in the fashion industry about the use of size 0 models. However now the scale has shifted, and the debate has changed to the other extreme with the use of plus sized models on the catwalks. Although many want to embrace this new idea as it sends out a message of positive body image, there are still concerns as to whether this is actually a good thing.
Designer Mark Fast’s catwalk show at London Fashion Week, which took place on the February 20, is a prime example. He challenged fashion’s size 0 obsession by sending out “real looking women” on the catwalk in his collection at London fashion week. Although these models were noticeably larger then the other “normal” models, they were by no means overweight and a healthy dress size for their height and weight being a size 14 to 16. This caused another size controversy in the papers not dissimilar to that of the size 0 models. But not everyone embraced this brave change to get away from the stereotype, as Mark’s stylist to his show allegedly walked out last year, only days before the show, in protest at having to work with plus sized models.
Mark isn’t the only one trying to target the average British woman. From February 18, Debenhams have started to use “plus sized” mannequins in their Oxford Street shop windows on a trial basis to see how it would be received and so that many women across the country would be able to relate to what they see advertised and realistically see how this may look on them. The mannequins are a size 16, which is the average size for a British woman today. Being the average size of this generation’s woman should it therefore be classed as plus sized? Surely the standard size 6/ 8 mannequins that are most commonly used in shops should be classed as “less size” as they are not representing the true woman. Debenhams’ Head of Creative, Mark Stevens said: “We are proud to offer a broad and varied choice for women of all ages, shapes and sizes in store. So we thought we should reflect this in our window displays.”
As the market is slowly shifting to cater for the every day woman (in the high street’s case anyway), more and more plus-sized models are making it big in the industry. Furthermore, the British Fashion Council (BFC) has also commissioned an inquiry to look into the health of the models on London’s catwalks. They have asked Beat (beating eating disorders) which has been around for the past 20 years, to get involved so people can get help if needed. This shows there is a positive step forward into making models on the catwalks healthier.
Getting a first hand opinion from people who work in the competitive and demanding fashion industry, here’s what some models from around Farnham’s University for the Creative Arts think about the rise of the plus sized models.
“I think it’s great that they’re using plus sized models, it makes “real” women feel they too can look good in clothes, although designers do use tall slim girls as it’s true, clothes do hang and look better on a slimmer body.”
She thinks that it’s a great idea that Debenhams are using “plus sized” mannequins in shop windows. However she knows about the pressures of the industry that many of the girls have to face.
“Every time fashion week comes around the media seem to target the models and use images of the tiniest girls they can find, labelling all models as anorexic and having eating disorders. This definitely isn’t true. Having worked in the industry, many of the models are naturally thin yet also have a balanced diet and exercise. Eating disorders etc, definitely do happen within the industry as there is a lot of competition and the girls want to look their best, but in some cases, they take it too far and become unhealthy.
“Model agencies are also blamed for telling their girls to watch what they eat, when all they want is for their models to be healthy and their clients to be happy. When people realise I have modelled, one of the first questions I get is do you eat? and it drives me crazy because I eat loads!”
“I think using plus sized models is such a great thing for the industry, as so many girls who walk the catwalks look scarily malnourished, even though it was reported that models would now be weighed and could only walk if their BMI was over a certain number. I’ve seen some sickly thin people at catwalk shows so I highly doubt that actually happens.
“There’s so much pressure on girls and women in the UK to get the ‘perfect’ model body by hardly eating and working out 24/7, that to slowly bring in ‘normal’ sized people to the fashion industry will hopefully, over time, show the public that size 0 skinny is not sexy and plus sized models shouldn’t be shunned away from catwalk shows because they are a size 12 or 14. I think the industry classes a size 10 as the ‘biggest’ a model can be, so if you hit a 12, you’ve not got a chance.
“Although Mark Fast used 14/16 models at LFW, I sadly can’t see designers like Dior, Chanel and Versace using larger models any time soon. As bad as it sounds, the clothes they design sit much better on thinner models, so using a larger model isn’t going to do them any favours in the eyes of the rich and famous who buy their collections by the month.
“The models that currently walk for the top designers are very thin, and they’ve obviously had to work their bodies very hard to get to the size they are. So even though having larger models on a catwalk could be better for the public to see, it could completely mess over the current skinny models, as staying at such a tiny size is a mental state as well as a physical one.”
Kari Milborn, 37, manager of Coast in House of Fraser thinks that the use of plus size mannequins is a great idea as it means that the everyday woman can identify with how the clothes might look on them. However, from a sales point of view she doesn’t think it will be that successful. “The clothes don’t look as good on bigger models and therefore won’t be as attention grabbing and pleasing to the eye as typical size 8 mannequins and bigger models won’t help boost sales.”
However, what do the public think about this idea. A survey was carried out to gather their opinions and here are the results;
*100% of all people asked thought that plus sized models on the catwalk is a good idea.
“Yes definitely, they are a better role model for young people.”
* 40% of people thought that clothes look just as good on bigger models as skinnier models however 60% disagreed and thought the clothes look better on skinnier models.
“Some clothes look better on skinny models, but if the clothes fit properly they can look just as good on bigger women.”
* 30% of people said that plus sized mannequins would catch their attention in a shop whilst 70% said they wouldn’t notice any difference.
...What do you think? (please feel free to leave comments.)
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